Frequently Asked Questions

National figures from This Old House's 2026 hurricane window guide run from about $300 to over $1,700 per window, depending on style and size. Frame material, glass package, story height, wall repairs and how many openings you do at once drive the final number, which comes on your written estimate.

Impact windows cost more up front but protect the house year round with nothing to deploy, and they also cut outside noise and block most UV. Shutters cost less per opening but need to be closed or installed before every storm. If you travel in hurricane season or cannot lift panels, impact glass usually earns its price.

When windows are replaced in the wind-borne debris region, the Florida Building Code generally requires the openings to be protected, either with impact-rated glass or with approved shutters, with limited exceptions for small replacements on older homes. Whether your address is in that region depends on the design wind speed and distance from the coast. We confirm it during the estimate, and the building department reviews it with the permit.

They can. Florida requires insurers to offer credits for opening protection, recorded on the OIR-B1-1802 wind mitigation form. The full credit usually needs every glazed opening protected, including the garage door, so a partial upgrade may not move your premium.

The federal 25C energy credit for windows and doors does not apply to property placed in service after December 31, 2025, under the 2025 federal tax law. Hurricane shutters were not eligible for it. The state's My Safe Florida Home grant is a separate program worth checking, and a tax professional can confirm your situation.

Well-made impact windows commonly last for decades when they are cared for. Rinsing frames and tracks with fresh water, keeping weep holes clear and lubricating hardware helps a lot in coastal salt air. Ask about the manufacturer's own warranty terms for each product.

Most homes take a few days of installation once products arrive, with one or two openings out at a time so the house is closed up each night. Manufacturing lead times and the permit usually take longer than the install, so we give you a written schedule after the order is placed.

Impact units are made to measure, so there is a manufacturing lead time after you order. It changes with the manufacturer and the season, especially after a storm. We give you the current lead time in writing with the quote.

Yes. Some owners keep existing shutters for extra protection or for openings they have not upgraded yet. Tracks that are no longer needed can be removed and the stucco patched if you prefer.

The laminated glass is much harder to get through than ordinary glass because it stays bonded even when cracked. That makes a quick smash-and-enter far harder, though no window is burglar-proof.

No. Many people do the largest or most exposed openings first. Keep in mind that the full insurance credit for opening protection usually needs every glazed opening covered, so a phased plan often pairs new windows with shutters on the rest.

Usually, yes. The laminated interlayer dampens sound, and insulated laminated glass does more. Owners near busy roads or the airport flight path often notice it first.

HomeGuide puts most whole-house shutter jobs at $2,000 to $8,000 nationally. Style matters a lot: motorized roll-downs cost far more than panels or accordions. The count and size of openings decide where you land, and your written estimate is the price.

Building codes generally require a way out of bedrooms in an emergency, and many associations limit how long shutters may stay closed. Closing them only when a storm is forecast is the safer habit.

Yes, approved shutters count as opening protection, just like impact glass. The credit generally requires every glazed opening, including the garage door, to be protected.

Motorized roll-downs are the easiest, followed by accordion shutters that slide closed on a track. Bahama and colonial shutters are simple too but need someone to reach each one from outside.

For a door you use daily, usually yes. Shuttering a large slider before every storm is heavy work, and closed shutters block the main way out to the yard. Impact glass keeps the opening usable and protected at the same time.

Common causes are worn weatherstripping, clogged weep holes in the sill, a sill without a pan underneath, or a door with a low water rating for its exposure. A replacement should address all four.

Often, but widening changes the load on the header above, so it needs structural review and drawings for the permit. We will tell you at the estimate whether it looks feasible.

Noticeably heavier than standard glass because of the laminated layers. Good rollers and a clean track keep them easy to move; we adjust them at installation.

For full opening protection and the insurance credit, yes. The wind mitigation inspection looks at every glazed opening, and doors with glass count. A solid door without glass is treated differently, which the inspector will note.

Yes, many approved doors have full-length glass, sidelights and transoms in laminated glass. The approval limits the glass size and pattern, so some decorative designs are not available.

An out-swing door seats against its frame stop when wind pushes on it, so it resists blowing in. Many approved impact doors are out-swing, although in-swing approved units also exist.

Fiberglass is usually the better choice near salt water because it will not rust or dent. Steel works well inland if chips in the finish are touched up.

Approved clear polycarbonate panels meet the same impact tests for the spans they are listed for. They cost more and can scratch or yellow over time, but they let light in while they are up.

With fresh-water rinsing and dry storage, panels can serve for many years. Bent panels and corroded anchors are the usual reasons for replacement.

Yes, homeowners usually do. Plan for sharp edges, ladder work on upper windows and a few hours for a whole house. Labeling panels makes it much faster.

Approved panels count as opening protection when every glazed opening is covered. The wind mitigation inspector will want to see the approval and the installed tracks or anchors.

Without a backup they stop where they are. That is why we suggest closing them as soon as a storm is forecast and fitting a manual override or battery backup, especially over doors.

For a whole house, motorized roll-downs can approach the cost of impact windows. Roll-downs win for very large openings, shade and security; impact windows win when you want nothing to operate at all.

Yes, with storm bars or posts for wide spans. They can protect the lanai and the sliding doors behind it.

A motorized shutter typically closes in well under a minute. Manual cranks take longer depending on the size of the opening.